The wonderful dress is a beautiful example of Gianfranco Ferre's work during his time as Creative Director for Christian Dior. The near twin of this piece walked the Spring 1996 runway and I have included the runway video as well as still from the runway for you here so that you can see how it moves once it is on. On the runway is was worn by Shalom Harlow and it was the closing look of the show. Shalom also appeared in it for an editorial for Vogue Magazine that season and it also appeared in British Vogue. It's modern provenance is equally exciting. Emily Deschanel wore this exact dress to the 91st Academy Awards where she walked the Oscar's red carpet with her sister Zoe to support their father, Caleb for his nomination for Best Cinematography for Never Look Away. It is an amazing piece of fashion history and the dress is absolutely stunning.
The dress is a beautiful example of Ferre's work during his time as Creative Director for Christian Dior. The dress is fitted through the bodice with a neckline that curves down in a slight scoop. This version has little straps that the dress is suspended from but if you prefer the strapless look of the runway you could easily tuck them in or remove them. I am not 100% sure that they are original to the dress. It is very heavy because of the extensive underskirts and they may have been added for additional support. I have included a photo where I tucked them in so that you can see how close the neckline is to the runway dress without them in place. The neckline curves wide and flat across the bust with two peaks set on either side nearer to the arms. There is no waist seam to break the line of the dress. It is shaped by long vertical seaming that curves over the body to the hem of the skirt. Hidden inside the dress is a built in corset that is boned and adds more shaping. Slanted and curved faux pockets sit on each hip to add a little extra shaping there. The skirt flares out dramatically with a bit of a Spanish feel to it and there is an elaborate set of built in underskirts to help achieve the flare and volume there. The underskirts are made with a netted silk with lace finished edges and there are multiple layers of these ruffles attached to the inner skirts. The skirt is cut shorter at the front and then flares out dramatically back and away to make a trained effect. The inner underskirts are all attached to the inner corset so essentially there is a full built in structured dress inside and then the top black layer is cut to lie perfectly over that. I love the hidden bow at the back of the underskirt. It is a sweet little detail that you just catch a glimpse of when it is on but you will know it is there. The length it will fall on you is dependent on your height. If you are shorter you will get that same feel as the runway video and the editorial photos where it touches the ground, or sits just above it, at the front and then trains out behind you. If you are very tall it will sit more like how it did on Emily. Emily is quite tall at just over 5'7" and with heels on top of her own height the skirts lifted off of the ground more like you see in the photos. Excellent condition with a small note below
The dress has a fully built in structural inner dress. The bodice is boned all around and the inner skirts extend to lie past the top black layer. These are finished with tiers of tightly pleated netting that is edged in lace. The inner portion of the skirt is finished with stiffening to give it structure and help to keep the volume. There is a wide inner waist stay that hooks to close and the inner dress zips to close. A hidden set zipper then closes the top layer. The dress was temporarily tacked to have a more open back for when it was worn by Emily to the Oscars. There is the very slightest of stitch marks on either side of the zipper. There is a tiny bit of greying feel to the underskirts that I feel is just a natural effect of this fabric and how it is aging.
Bust: 15.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 51" from top of the shoulder straps to front hem, 60" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD3155
Reference Photos: (1-4) Emily Deschanel at the 91st Academy Awards, Styled by Penny Lovell / (5) Shalom Harlow for Vogue, 1996 / (6) Dior SS 1996 Runway / (7) Photo by Jacques Olivar for British Vogue, 1996.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
